Namaste
Namaste. And I mean that in the LEAST "hi, I'm a white woman who owns a yoga studio in Santa Monica cleverly labeled NAMASLAY" (which is featured prominently on a storefront in pink neon. Font: Helvetica)” kind of way.
It took some getting use to, but throughout out my Nepalese journey, I learned to appreciate the warmth, the respect, the soul behind this greeting typically accompanied by closed palms and a bowing head.
Nepal was everything I imagined and more.
Here’s a snippet of our itinerary: (In my previous life, I must’ve been a travel agent, because the joy in which i’m filled with when it’s time to whip out my Adobe InDesign skills to plan a trip? BEYOND. Retirement plan secured.)
The moment we touched down in Kathmandu, we were filled with such relief to finally have our feet on the ground (after a 28-hour journey including a delay + 7 hour layover). We did however feel a sliver of anxiety for the sea of taxi drivers awaiting us and prepared to swindle us into overpaying for a ride to our lodging. After such a long journey, we’d run out of steam to do any heavy negotiating, so we hitched a ride via the airport cab service (and ended up paying only 700 rupees). We later learned that there was a full-blown gas crisis due to truck drivers responsible for delivering gas going on strike… so what we we initially perceived to be a “ tourist scam” was actually a reasonable case of inflation.
Our first stay was at Nepal Pavilion Inn - lodging with no frills, but had a comfy place for us to rest our heads and a very kind staff. We ditched our bags and immediately started exploration - visiting Stupas (Buddhist shrines), Durbar Squares (plazas that consist of temples, shrines, vendors and a swarm of tour guides excited to share the history of the square) and embarking upon our Dal Bhat-filled Nepalese food-tour. The energy and pace of the city began to weigh on us, but made for brilliant people-watching. Oftentimes, we’d just be still to watch folks whizz by on foot, vespas, motorcycles, tuktuks, etc. The air always smelled of musk and incense with an occasional whiff of grilled meat. A never-ending cacophony of car horns and bells made for an aural explosion. Vehicles scurried through traffic in organized chaos. Barely any traffic lights or lines painted on the ground, but cars moved like schools of fish (yet when you were inside one, it often felt like it might just be your final ride). The dust never settled - it seemed there was never once a break in movement.
Day two in Kathmandu was a continuation of the former in that we visited more stupas and ate more momos (Tibetan dumplings - we had at LEAST 20 orders served a variety of ways over our entire stay). In particular, the Boudhanath Stupa was our favorite because not only was it NOT trampled by tourists, we got to be flies on the wall a bit and observed such sacred, beautiful religious practices - offerings, chants, the lighting of thread, candles and incense for prosperity and to honor divine spirits. It was all so rich.
That night, I decided to switch it up a bit with the lodging and we stayed at Dwarika’s Hotel. (I love an even mix of luxury and camping-adjacent lodging when i’m traveling - we both like to immerse ourselves fully in the culture and remain grounded, but it was nice for a couple of days to allow ourselves to step back from the hustle and bustle and be comfortable).
(More momos + stupas)
Next, we flew to Pokhara, a quaint lakeside town - not nearly as active as Kathmandu - a chance to breathe finally. Our first day there, we hopped in a rowboat (for approx. 20 minutes) to embark upon a beautiful, serene 2-hour hike to the World Peace Stupa - let’s just call it a warm up for the 3-day trek that laid ahead.
The next day, our trek begins. Woke up at 5am (because jet lag). Pillow talked. Hopped out of bed at 6:30am. Ate breakfast at 7am. Greeted the table across from us (family of 4 traveling from London/born in Kenya). It was the Dad’s birthday (they shared some delicious chocolate layered cake with us… at 7am) and we found out a bit about their journey - they happened to be embarking on a similar, yet longer 5-day trek. As they left us, we took a look at what seemed to be 10 bags between the 4 of them and questioned whether or not we were prepared with one 40L backpack full of clothes and toiletries and one day pack full of snacks. Shakily, we made our way to greet our trekking guide, DB. He then introduced us to our Porter (Limbu) that we didn’t even know was included in our trek package - they both found the amount of luggage we donned laughable (as we packed it to be able to carry it ourselves. We later came to realize that Porters were used to carrying 2 or more backpacks (60-100lbs) at a time… sometimes even in flip-flops. HOW? Nepali people are insanely strong beings). Like… don’t even talk to me about how you/whomever “climbed Everest”, because the TRUE MVPs are the Porters, the Sherpas - doing the same climb AND carrying YOUR baggage. RESPECT.
We headed to the village of Nayapul where our 3-day trek would begin (stopping for gas and pomegranates on the way). It started out flat-ish, but went from 0-100 REAL QUICK. Trav was a beast and climbed with ease, but with each steep incline and a path of 5000 stairs, I was considering that maybe I wasn’t the intended soulmate for him if our life together meant I’d be participating in more of these experiences. Hiking 6-8 hours each day for 3 days was definitely the most strenuous activity I’ve endured in my life. Thank goodness for the brief interludes midway throughout our days where we’d stop at a guesthouse for an hour or so, rest our limbs and have some of the most delicious dal bhat platters and curry dishes.
At the end of day one, we landed at Purnima Guest House. Gorgeous views. Modest lodging. Twin beds and a bathroom - the necessities. Nothing more. Nothing less. After a long day of hiking, I was pleased to have taken my contacts off to shower because apparently there was a spider the size of a chicken lurking in the bathroom (who we’ve fondly named Chicken Spider). Travis enjoyed a warm shower after me, but towards the end of it, he peeped the insect and left the bathroom with a contemplative look because he wasn’t sure about telling me (so I wouldn’t get too freaked out). We called one of the groundskeepers to remove it safely (Buddhists are HEAVY on karma and never even hurting a fly) - this fine gentleman who saved us from this atrocity absolutely agreed that it was the size of a chicken.
(more tasty dal bhat and momos)
Trek day two was more of the same (minus 5,000 stairs). Much more bearable. We made it to the tippy top (Poon Hill) at an elevation of 11,000ft. The air was thin, yet crisp. Would have been pretty dope to see Mount Everest in the distance, but the haze was DENSE. But honestly, making it to the top was the reward itself. Such a bar to be able to say we HIKED THE HIMALAYAS.
Day 3 was mostly downhill - a breeze for me and rough on Trav’s knees. It was like a role reversal - suddenly I was able to breathe and talk simultaneously and actually enjoy nature and he was laser focused on getting down the never-ending flight of stairs without collapsing. Our legs felt like mush + rubber by the end.
The next day was EXCLUSIVELY about R&R - massages at Jiva Spa (THE GIRLS CLIMBED ON OUR BACKS, DO YOU HEAR ME?) The rub-down was absolutely necessary after such an escapade. Later, we had dinner at our absolute favorite restaurant in all of Nepal - Spice Nepal. Between two nights, we ordered everything on the menu and NOT ONE DISH DISAPPOINTED.
Next day: Took an 18-passenger flight to Chitwan. Checked in to Bahari Jungle Lodge. Walked around town. Ate kofta and dal at a hippy eco-lodge that grows its own weed. Went back to the lodge where our hosts, Krishna and Mangara told us a bit about the land we were on and we did a light bird-watching tour at dusk. Saw some cool plants in the garden and a couple of elephants. Lizards were in our room (no big deal after the Chicken Spider, honestly - also they eat spiders, so wonderful!)
(more momos for dinner. surprise)
The following day, we went on a much-anticipated Jeep Safari in the jungle. Spotted some rhinos, chickens, a peacock and other exotic birds, deer. Both of us have been on insane safaris in Zambia and saw the big 5, so we didn’t have high expectations, but it turned out to be a solid way to spend 12 hours. Our tour guide, Mangara was the biggest bird-watching nerd, so it was exciting to identify different species with him. It was also really nice to have taken a moment off of the jeep to enjoy our lunch sitting near the edge of a cliff looking over all of the jungle.
(more momos)
Next stop: 7 hour bus ride to Kathmandu to take a steep, bumpy, everlasting cab ride to Nagarkot. The reward? Hotel Mystic Mountain. Deeeeeeep R&R vibes.
(+ finally, a break from momos)
The next day, we went on a pretty chill hike near the hotel and I had to shit in the woods. (I had a pretty good run [no pun intended] considering I had zero fears and trepidations about eating new and sometimes even uncooked food throughout our journey) Thank GOD I had the foresight to bring tissue paper EVERYWHERE, because honeeeeyyyy…
Anyway, we checked out of the gorgeous Hotel Mystic Mountain and the smoothest taxi driver in the history of Nepal (even rolled up windows whenever we approached dust), took us to Bhaktapur where the city is hundreds of years old (and you could tell immediately from our Airbnb - mind you, on Airbnb the photos made it seem super chic and all on one level). The walk up was made for hobbits in the 13th century (I’m only 5’6 and had to duck through each doorway and stairway). The shoddy bathroom was on the second floor, the bedroom was on the fourth, kitchen on the fifth. We took one step into this place and said “we need to leave first thing tomorrow” All night there seemed to be a soundscape of EVERY animal we encountered on the safari. Chickens screaming at 12am. People coughing up phlegm at all hours. Dogs barking and fighting. People yelling. Bells being rung throughout the night for ceremonial/religious reasons. I slept, but sadly, Travis did not.
We woke up and headed straight to the hospital to get PCR tests at 8 AM which was nothing short of a debacle. It took four staff members including a doctor to figure out how to receive our passports via email/WhatsApp. I don’t know how other travelers are getting tested, but it took an army to get our information into the system. Thankfully, we had the Airbnb phone number that we were able to use as verification for having a local number. Afterwards, I went on a dessert tour as if I hadn’t had explosive diarrhea the prior day (ballsy move, but when in Rome…).
Security kept stopping us around town - asking for our entree ticket to the square (which we had no intention of entering). We got annoyed, packed our luggage and left Bhaktapur around 11am to Kathmandu. It was charming and quaint in ways, but that place was just not our vibe. Got to our final hotel which compared to the last Airbnb, felt like the Four Seasons. Put our stuff down and went exploring, bought some souvenirs for family, and of course, feasted. HARD. We went to Utse Restaurant which was probably the second best meal we had AND we saw a RAT whilst eating… THAT’S how good the food was. We stayed for dinner AND came back the next night. Got a Tibetan plate filled with all local dishes, tingmo bread, and a hot pot which was fantastic - packed with noodles, mushrooms, tofu and some type of sweet potato which was top tier. We went for a photowalk afterward to work off the food because we ordered wayyyyyyyyyyy too much. (possibly enough for 4 people)
On the last day, we visited more religious sites and did a final strut of Kathmandu whilst reflecting on the highs and lows of our trip.
All in all, Nepal was a dream and I'm so glad we selected it. The trip encompassed ALL of our favorite things - good people, bomb food, movement, gorgeous sights and a sprinkle of discomfort which always makes for the deepest, richest belly laughs in hindsight.
End of note.
